Cosmelan Peel for Pigmentation and Melasma

Cost: $1000 per treatment cycle (4-6 months)

Results: 2-4 weeks, maximal at 4-6 months

Treatment Regimen: Every ~4-6 months, 2-3 times a year

Downtime: 7-14 days

Discomfort: Mild-moderate skin redness, swelling, itch and peeling

Medical Director’s note: The Cosmelan peel has built up a cult-like following amongst individuals with difficult to treat melasma. While the downtime is not for everybody, the Cosmelan peel is a good option for melasma patients who are looking for a significant improvement with a single treatment.)

What is Cosmelan Peel?

The Cosmelan peel is a medical-grade peel that addresses melasma and pigmentation to deliver a clearer complexion. The Cosmelan Peel is a two-part chemical peel that consists of the in-office application of Cosmelan 1 followed by home maintenance skincare with the Cosmelan 2 depigmenting cream.

What does Cosmelan Peel treat?

Cosmelan Peel is primarily used to treat pigmentary disorders such as melasma, sun spots (lentigo) and freckles. The Cosmelan peel is known for its effectiveness in treating melasma in darker skin types (Asian, Indian). In addition, the Cosmelan Peel delivers skin rejuvenation, boosting collagen levels and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Who should do a Cosmelan Peel?

Cosmelan Peel is recommended for patients who are suffering from hyperpigmentation and melasma. However, pregnant women and individuals with sensitive skin should not do this treatment. The Cosmelan Peel is administered by doctors in the clinic (Step 1), followed by daily home use (Step 2). Medical supervision is required as this peel may irritate, peel and swell.

What to expect from a Cosmelan Peel?

A doctor’s consultation with clinical photography is required to establish a correct diagnosis and ensure there are no contraindications for the Cosmelan Peel. Next, the Cosmelan Peel step 1 is applied to the entire face and kept on for 6-8 hours. It is washed off and post-peel skincare is applied over the next 7-14 days as the skin recovers. Thereafter, Cosmelan 2 is applied daily (once at night) for the next 3-4 months.

What to expect after Cosmelan Peel treatment

Day 0 - Application of Cosmelan Peel in the clinic, wash off after 6-8 hours

On days 1-4, you should expect tight, red and swollen skin. From around Day 5, peeling will start and can last up to 10 days or slightly longer.

Most people experience quite significant facial swelling and redness on the 3rd to 5th day after the peel. This is normal and expected.

Apply an ice pack or cold compress to the affected area to reduce inflammation or discomfort.

For the next few days, refrain from using any makeup or other products on your skin, as this could interfere with healing.

You may also need to wear sunscreen or sunblock when going outdoors.

Avoid any activities that could cause excessive sweating, such as exercising and saunas.

How does the Cosmelan Peel work?

​​The scientifically proven ingredients of the Cosmelan Peel work through various mechanisms to treat hyperpigmentation. In more detail, the ingredients:

1. Accelerates skin cell turnover to remove the build-up of pigment
2. Reduces the amount of pigment production
3. Blocks the transfer of melanin from the melanocyte to the epidermal cells
4. Blocks the migration of melanin to the epidermis
5. Inhibits the production of melanin by melanocytes

Cosmelan Peel vs Laser treatment

Both Cosmelan Peel and Laser treatments such as PicoSure Laser are options for the treatment of melasma and pigmentation. A comparison table of the two options lists the pros and cons of each option.

It is possible to combine Cosmelan Peel and Laser treatments with a 1-month rest interval- ie to perform the treatments at least a month apart.

Cosmelan Peel Summary: Our review

Dr Bernard Tan’s review of Cosmelan Peel:

Having undergone multiple laser treatments for pigmentation, I was quite excited to try the Cosmelan Peel having heard many good things about it. Cosmelan Step 1 was easy, like putting on a mud mask. However, it was rather time-consuming to have the mask on for 8 hours and it was a relief to wash it off later at night. The next day, my skin felt swollen and tight- the redness and swelling improved over the next 2-3 days and was followed by skin peeling and flaking. Things finally came back to normal around 7-10 days after the peel, and I was pleasantly surprised that my pigmentation had lightened by about 50% and my skin looked smooth and glowing.

The Cosmelan Peel is a good option, especially for darker-skinned individuals with difficult-to-treat melasma. The downtime is not for everybody but you can see significant and visible results within 2 weeks of a single treatment.